27.45.8'W x 69.59.9'W

Now the thrum and hum of the engine is silenced, replaced by the comparatively relaxing sound of deep-blue water passing the hull. While we have had wind for most of our voyage from Panama to Bermuda, it has been from the wrong direction - namely the one in front of our noses! Early yesterday, we altered course to a more north-westerly direction - enough for us to sail close-hauled off the wind. We are trying to go around a high pressure system that lies between us and Bermuda. Its "center" contains little wind, so we are trying to skirt it's boundaries as the system heads more east.

It is always a better voyage under sail and not just for the inspiring sight of our stretching canvas. The ship heels over slightly, held down by the power of the wind aloft - it creates a more stable (and therefore, comfortable) movement over the waves, as opposed to using only the engines, which, without the pressure aloft, we feel the roll of every wave. It works as long as you don't mind walking in slanted corridors, using heads (toilets) in slanted rooms and (in my case) "tacking" your body in your athwartships bunk, switching which side you sleep on so that your head is higher than your feet. It is always a slightly harrowing part of the day when you have to carry a large pot of steaming hot soup up a slanted stairway that is rolling with the waves. It always reminds me of those vintage pictures of the cargo-carrying square-riggers, where you see the poor cook or another unfortunate, struggling to carry a pot of stew as the wild waters swirl around his thighs - threatening to upset lunch (and everyone's day) with a loss of food for a voraciously hungry crew. I wonder how they managed meals without "sticky" mats.

I love birthdays on this ship, and today's was one for Mark Meyrick - a voyage crewmember, genial fellow and all-around helpful chap. He is making sure he enjoys his time on Europa by volunteering for any duty or work, no matter how fun or menial. Our welcome wind kept blowing out his candles for him, forcing Woody to make a hand-tent around one lone candle for Mark to blow out for his birthday wish.

Whatever he wished, his birthday was a special day for me too because the galley made apple pie. The best five apple pies I have ever had were served on Europa by either Marianne or Rensje and Annalies. Fantastic! Apples, cinnamon, raisins, even the cross-hatch pie pattern on the top. I can't even explain how heaven-sent it is, you simply have to have it. Today must have been a particularly lucky day, for Woody made cinnamon buns rolled in brown sugar for breakfast in the morning. I love those too! You don't get this kind of luxury on every tall ship. These awesome little things matter! Many tall ships smell like pine tar and moldy wood all the time, but Europa often smells like bread baking in the oven, fresh coffee, or brownies, or brown sugar and cinnamon glazing over raisin bread, pies and more. We love our galley, and they love us.

The weather of the past few days has been consistently sunny and pleasant, especially since we have left the barely-breathable steamy heat of the tropics in our wake. A cool breeze now makes our lounge, forepeak, heads, crew cave and library liveable again! Tom Fitzgibbon has harnessed the sunny weather to bring his varnishing project to "all ahead full". Day after day, the rails and benches are sanded and varnished again, to bring our brightwork into stunning shine after a rough marring from the extremes of the Antarctic voyages and tropical sun. Anyone sitting idle long enough soon finds themselves roped into his project. I competed with him for helpers as I scoured the deck for volunteers to help scour the old varnish from blocks, a direct labor-pool competition with Tom's projects. Regardless, the work is being done and we should be shining in time for the summer's tall ship festivals in the United States.

First though, we have Bermuda to visit. As I write this we are about 400 miles away, as the crow flies and closing to its sun-lit, palm-laden shores and famous rum drinks. The ever-potentially mischievious Divan of our crew keeps talking about how he is going to "shut the town down" - whatever that entails!