Having toasted the arrival of 2012 with bubbles on deck amid the icebergs at midnight, ship's time (3am in the UK, 4am in Europe, next Tuesday in New Zealand) we gathered somewhat blearily this morning to land on Paulet Island, in the Weddell Sea.

A visit here is an intense experience; partly because almost the entire island is an ASPA, an Antarctic Special Protected Area, meaning we walk single-file, trying to avoid disturbing the pristine environment and the diverse wildlife , don't step on the moss!!.

And partly because we are following in the footsteps of an expedition of 1902 who over-wintered here when their ship sank, and our time ashore includes a visit to the remains of their stone hut and the grave of the ship's cook, as the wind, snow and Adelie penguins gradually absorb them back into this breath-taking landscape.

So, we are a thoughtful bunch as we move on to the snow-field at the northernmost edge of Dundee Island, a few miles north, considering the hardships endured by these men as they awaited a rescue they weren't sure would ever arrive.

We arrive at the deserted Argentinian station at Petrel Cove, (Petrel Station) and walk out onto the glacier as the still-light night draws in around us. Do we stand, captivated by Nature's sublime beauty? No. We have a massive snowball fight and try to do penguin sliding back down the hill. Happy New Year everyone.

Kate Stokes