Standing on the foredeck of the fine vessel Europa, it is just past mid night and twilight. Unusually, Red watch stands in silence, respectfully observing Antarctic lands slip towards the horizon. The sky over us was heavy and grey but as for a last reminder of the magnificent wonders we were leaving, the base of the cloud had been ripped away revealing beautiful ribbons of turquoise yellow and deep orange that were suspended over the Antarctic glow.

The atmosphere is of delighted, if a little subdued, reflection as thoughts are gathered on the wonders we were privileged to encounter on this unique experience. Right up to the final departure we were treated, escorted towards the Drake by a pod of Humpback whales that insisted on waving us off with a splendid display of their tails. Now we had to prepare to face these notorious waters.

Anything that could move was lashed, corridors cleared, possessions stowed, wet weather gear prepared and anti-sickness pills swallowed - we were ready. But……Several hours into the Drake Passage and there is no hint of the feared seas. No stumbling antics from the trainees getting accustomed to the new movement, no flying knives or unintended food fights in the lounge and no cursing from the heads (toilets) as people are tossed from one side to the other while trying to hoist long johns in a dignified manner. In fact it's like the sea has been ironed! Where is Drake? Asleep, maybe waking later with a grumpy surprise for us? Who knows - there is a long way to go! Meanwhile we will enjoy the comfortable conditions, absorb the last sightings of Antarctica, welcome back the albatross and witness the dolphins play in the bow wave.

Nicky