St. Helena

On the island, a group continued staying fit by walking over the island to Napoleon’s house, an upwards hike of about 8 kilometres. Others arranged a tour to drive them to the highlights of the island. Every trip the ship crosses path with someone of the past. In other trips we followed the footsteps of William Bligh, James Cook or Ernest Shackleton. This trip we followed Napoleon. To his house and his grave, together imagining what life would have been like on the island back then. We also visited someone who has nearly met some of these celebrities: Jonathan the Tortoise. A visit was arranged to the house of the governor, including a petting moment with the 193-year-old animal.

We enjoyed the variation of landscapes and colours that seemed extra bright after not seeing them for a while; the vibrant green grass, colourful flowers and, unfortunately, also the barren, brown soil - giving away the presence of the East Indian Trade company and the deforestation they caused. Fortunately, the islanders are proud of their endemic species and are working hard on reforestation. Who knows what the island will look like in a hundred years? Even though it can be a sad tale, I always enjoy looking at landscapes and see the passing of time in it: landscapes carrying scars from human settlement. It can be old churches, built in different building styles used across the ages, ruins left behind telling a story, or plastic on the beach telling another. There are stories hidden around us, everywhere we look.

Isley Reust is following us, making a documentary about our crossing. Together we went out to interview the ‘saints’ about their island. Out to find more of these stories. We talked with the wife of the governor about the friendliness and sense of community on the island. We were invited into homes, waved at by everyone and helped by anyone we would ask for help. I am not sure if I have ever visited a place where people were this welcoming. We met a fisherman, who invited us into his home and told us about his life, his family, his profession and local politics. He also explained how he could catch more Tuna than he could possibly sell during this season. Simultaneously, other crew members discovered this as well and so we left the island with 9kg of big eye tuna.

We are out on the ocean again. The tuna is finished, but Niels and Bart have caught some more fish already. We have seen two whales since. Even though there was more to learn and discover on the island, we are happy to be back on board.