Upwind sailing in the Southern Ocean.
Wearing ship at the pack ice edge and once more in the evening. Still, westerlies blow strong in the morning, easing down later on.
Early morning, where there was water yesterday, there is ice today. The edge of the pack ice shows up close to us again, now about 20nm north from where we met it before. Its movements and different locations in a short time are witness to the dynamic system it represents, how fast it can drift with the wind and currents. Time to wear ship once more and head north.
The strong winds still blow from the West, not letting us gain distance in that direction. For the last two days, the ship has been sailing back and forth, south to north, turning around and then again.
During the day, the winds and seas eased down. As we still want to keep a bit of speed, sail high in what is left of the wind, and have good steerage, we add some more canvas. Already last night, the Outer Jib was set, and over the main deck, the large Desmond replaces the smaller Aap. This morning, the Top Gallants join the configuration.
Abating conditions make it easier to have a look around on deck and enjoy the soaring flight of the Light-mantled albatrosses that follow us, together with prions, Cape and Giant petrels, the small but brave Wilson storm petrels, and one of the prettiest Antarctic birds, the all-white Snow petrel.
Like that, we sail 104nm in 24 hours, but just before trying to tack and ending up wearing in the evening, we find ourselves 33nm in a north-northwest direction from yesterday’s position at the same time. A journey with just 7.5nm of westing.
The challenge and the beauty of sailing in the Antarctic system. You want to go somewhere, there, there is ice, current against too. The wind often doesn’t cooperate with your wishes, and the ship wants to go somewhere else. You brace her sharp, you make her sail as close to the wind as she can manage. She heels and pitches in the rough seas, now to one side, now to the other when you change tack. Her rig in tension, her sheets tight. Not the most comfortable ride, but nothing else we can do not to lose the westing we made before or the chance to catch a wind shift that can pull her to the Antarctic Peninsula.
