Lemaire Channel and Vernadsky
It was another early start for many of us as we had made our way through the Gerlache Strait in the night, and were at Eclipse Point before 0700. Some had woken for first light which again, was not a disappointment. The light chose its mountains to illuminate whilst others were still hidden behind a curtain of cloud. Large ice bergs surrounded us as we made our approach to Screen Islands where Eclipse Point is situated. The loud gunshot like noises were heard as one of the ice bergs broke up, sending chunks of brash ice radiating out from the remains.
The passage always looks narrow. Always much narrower than I remember from the last time I passed. With ice all around, ice bergs in the sea and cornices above us hanging off the land, it felt truly Antarctic. A snow petrel was elegantly flying by as we entered the passage. More people started to emerge on deck, with either their breakfast or a camera in hand, we were all kept busy.
Once we had taken some time to photograph the ever-changing view of the mountains as the clouds danced with the peaks, there was a grand call from Ben on the poop deck. Orcas at 2 oclock!
We couldn’t quite believe it. Had he just said this as a joke to show how we have been so lucky this trip that even orcas at the entrance to the Lemaire Channel would we believable? We rushed inside to inform everyone and made our way to the high up spots of the fore, sloop and poop decks.
As we went into neutral with the engines, we could see that the orcas were diving. There were repeated breaths followed by a period without much action. Olivia was on the fore deck explaining that they were diving on a carcass they had caught. The water turned red as three orcas appeared at the surface, rotating their bodies as they tore apart their catch. Later, when we all crowded round laptop screens investigating what the catch was, some were convinced it was a humpback whale with the size and shapes as proof. Others thought it was a seal. There was no conclusive footage however, the scene was something to admire in itself as we watched the purposeful orca rip into their prey as the high mountains of Lemire Channel were becoming increasingly visible beyond. The famous Una’s Tits were even on full show by now.
After some time, we had to leave the orca in peace. So, we made a plan for the next bout of adrenalin, with a steady 10 to 15 knots of wind from the north, the wind was with us enabling us to sail the narrow, high sided Lemaire Channel. The alignment of good viability, convenient wind strength and ice conditions that would allow us to pass, were too good an opportunity to miss.
Within 30 minutes of the decision being made, the deckhands had been busy in the rig unfurling the topsails and were back on deck commanding the full crew to set the lower topsails. Ben and Beth went out in Grey to capture the scene as Europa made her way through this magnificent scenery.
The deck looked like spaghetti after the setting of the sails. We also had the chance to set the newly bent on upper topsail which the deck crew had replaced while we were ashore, having ripped the last one on the Drake. The new sail was well set and looking good, perfectly ready for the Drake Passage once again. There were a couple of blows on starboard side during the action. Two humpback whales passed by with their flukes on display as they dived down.
Towards the south of the channel there were more ice bergs which made us inclined to think there would be some rapid action to get the sails down. However, Dan was up for the slalom and took us through the maze of ice, weaving to find the route to the Penola Straight and on to the Argentine Islands under sail. We did have to start the engines at the southern end of the Lemaire Channel as we were in the lee of Booth Island.
It wasn’t long before the rig was full as we photographed the whales, each other and dabbled in some furling while we were aloft. The bow net was also littered with people taking a new perspective of the scenery.
By 12:30 it was time for the briefing for the afternoon landing. This was going to be another new experience as it was a double landing. We would first visit the historic Wordie House, which was originally one of the British Antarctic Survey stations from 1947 to 1996 making it the longest continually occupied station in Antarctica. The work done here was globally significant and included the discovery of the ozone hole in 1984. Since then, the hole has been monitored and various regulations have been changed as we have learnt more about our human impact on the ozone.
We heard about the original hut that was laid down here on Winter Island built by the British Grahamland Expedition which even as late as 1934, was able to shed more light to the complex coastline and changed the charts of the peninsula to reflect more like what we know today. Their work was mainly facilitated by air travel and dog sledding. Since 6th February 1996, the originally British Faraday Base has now been handed over to Ukrainians and renamed Vernadsky.
After a lunch on the go as we passed through the narrows and nestled ourselves into the Argentine Islands, it was time for Ben to choose his instruments for the Danish Happy Birthday song. Full of smiles and cheers we launched the zodiacs and headed ashore to visit Wordie House.
The hut itself was filled with smells that provoked memories of bothy’s and old buildings, bringing different memories to all of us. The items on the shelves were as if there had been no planned departure from this hut, leaving behind jars, tins, books and games.
We had a short walk up on the snow behind the hut. At the summit we got out our map to investigate where we were and what we could see in each direction. To the north the Lemaire Channel was clear and we were even able to look south to the proposed landings for the next day. There looked to be a lot of ice so we would have to see how dense it really was in the morning.
The zodiacs returned to the landing sites to pick us up and take us on the long-anticipated visit to the station. The station staff were very welcoming and gave us plenty of their time during the tours around the buildings. The station was very warm and well equipped, with the feeling that you were going back in time a few years. Those leading the tours showed off their own work, one lady had some cameras mounted on penguins and showed us the footage they had captured underwater. After the tour we headed to the top floor of the station where our cheeks turned rosy and our voices grew louder as we chattered away in the warmth of the Faraday Bar.
On route back to Europa we were lucky enough to see two very large leopard seals hauled out on some ice floes. A biologist from the station said they had 6 resident leopard seals and a couple of visiting ones. After we passed the seals, Europa came into view. This time the tent was set over the main deck and the party flags and famous grape lights were up.
Rocio was busy at the brai while the rest of the deck hands and galley team rushed around readying everything for the sociable night ahead. With the enthusiastic and well trained team lined up, but not touching, the yard tackle we managed to hoist the zodiacs up onto deck all in good time for the opening of the BBQ to be announced.
The delicious food was gobbled up and we cleared the way for the celebrations. The Ukrainians from the base had now arrived for a visit to us this time, making the main deck very full! Feet started tapping as we all sang for Ben’s birthday and the candle lit cakes were marched in by the tremendous galley team: Sasha and Esme. With a slice of apple cake in everyone’s hand, a video of Ben’s family paying happy birthday, which had been prepared in advance, was shown. It was a very magical moment to feel so together and part of each other’s lives as we took this moment to share the celebration.
The party went on occupying the main deck, pulling out everyone to share a dance, a drink or a moment to reflect. It was an evening to remember!