Drake Passage

Last night, we motored our way out of the French Passage to the Drake, preparing the ship for the sea. Europa passes through the Wilhelm Archipelago, to the North of the Argentine Islands, where we spent a couple of days enjoying the time at Winter and Galindez Islands. A passage sprinkled with rocks, islets, and stranded large icebergs, which was first navigated in 1909 by the Pourquoi-Pas?, the ship of the French Antarctic Expedition under Charcot.

Around midnight, astute day begins, so we activate the watches for starting to set sail. A fresh breeze from the southwest blows, filling up our sails as they gradually come up, and allowing for turning engines off. It takes the full night until about breakfast time until the full rig is set.

During the day, the southwesterly eases down. But helped by the current, we are able to maintain around 5 kn of speed.

By our daily meeting after dinner, we sail about the height of the southern South Shetlands, 107nm west of the spectacular Smith Island with its 2105m triple peak.

Just like yesterday, midnight was the time for some sail handling again. By then, we ran out of wind while at the same time the wind veered more to the west. The watch is called on deck to brace sharper on Port tack and clew up the courses.

A full day of amazingly good sailing, under a surprisingly calm sea and fantastic weather that started overcast to become a sunny afternoon and evening. Conditions that allow the crew to be busy with several maintenance projects, which otherwise can’t be done in the Drake Passage’s characteristic rough weather.

Relaxed conditions that also help to spend some time on deck enjoying the sunshine and the sailing, to attend the guides and crew talks and lectures, but also to gather at the poop deck for some birdwatching. A good half hour in the morning and again in the afternoon, we spent identifying and counting seabirds today.

Black and grey, expert gliders, with over two meters of wingspan, today, a few of the beautiful Light mantled albatrosses were spotted. It is not just the birds themselves that are interesting, but also the history of their discovery. The first description we have about them date from 1769 when the Endeavour sailed the Drake Passage. It was during Captain Cook's second expedition (1772-75) when an individual was shot and examined.

But they don’t fly alone today. To be truthful, not many birds fly around, but a few of the ones that are spotted we haven’t seen yet during our voyage. For a little while, a Grey headed albatross passes by, amongst a few Prions, and a Blue petrel shows up. Not much later, Southern fulmars join too.